Four-Star Restaurants
Four stars, for extraordinary, is the highest accolade a critic for The New York Times can award a New York City restaurant. Five restaurants have that honor: Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Jean Georges, Eric Ripert’s Bernardin (pictured above), Masayoshi Takayama’s Masa, Thomas Keller’s Per Se and Daniel Boulud’s Daniel.
Here are excerpts from the most recent reviews. Below them are the complete reviews.
Jean Georges
Eating is seldom this absorbing, this bracing. To lend needed excitement to beef tenderloin, some foie gras had been placed on top. But the crucial, less predictable flourish was a rhubarb foam on top of that. It cut the fattiness of the liver. It snapped the palate to attention. So did a wedge of cured lemon that was strategically placed alongside broiled squab and foie gras in another dish. — Frank Bruni, April 19, 2006
Le Bernardin
Le Bernardin has aged with astonishing grace, more Deneuve than Dunaway, doing what it must to remain youthful without ever making an elastic fool of itself, staying true to its identity while adapting to changing times. Now as before, it is a high church of reverently prepared fish. But more than ever global currents inform and influence what emerges from a kitchen that can no longer be succinctly described as French. — Frank Bruni, March 16, 2005
Masa
Masa, despite its chosen peculiarities and pitiless expense, belongs in the thinly populated pantheon of New York's most stellar restaurants. Simply put, Masa engineers discrete moments of pure elation that few if any other restaurants can match. If you appreciate sushi, Masa will take you to the frontier of how expansively good a single (and singular) bite of it can make you feel. — Frank Bruni, Dec. 29, 2004
Per Se
It is not wondrous 100 percent of the time, and it can be maddening: at moments too intent on culinary adventure or too highfalutin in its presentation and descriptions of dishes, one of which came with a choice of four salts from three continents. To get a reservation may well require a degree of planning and effort that verge on masochistic, and a multicourse, mini-portion extravaganza may well require four hours, which is more time than many diners have or want to spend.
But here is the thing: the return on that patience and that investment is more than a few mouthfuls of food that instantaneously bring a crazy smile to your face and lodge in your memory for days and even weeks to come. — Frank Bruni, Sept. 8, 2004Daniel
There's a definite tone at Daniel, a warmth usually associated with small neighborhood restaurants, and it emanates from the kitchen. Mr. Boulud has both feet planted in the rich gastronomic soil of the Lyonnais region, an area renowned for its robust, no-holds-barred cuisine. His personality, as a proprietor, has been shaped by the little restaurant that his parents once ran, and if he does not actually stand outside on the sidewalk greeting guests, there is an unmistakable spirit of generosity hovering over the dining room that makes Daniel unique. The name says it all. — William Grimes, March 14, 2001
Highlights From the Archive: The Four-Star Reviews
The Steady Center of an Expanding Universe
While the food at Jean Georges may no longer be novel, it still thrills, and this restaurant still presents an experience unlike others around town.
April 19, 2006DiningReviewOnly the Four Stars Remain Constant
Le Bernardin grabbed hold of four stars from Bryan Miller in The New York Times less than three months after it opened in early 1986 and has never let them slip from its grasp, maintaining its superior rating more than twice as long as any of the other New York restaurants in its elite company.
March 16, 2005Dining and WineReview
Sushi at Masa: It's a Zen Thing
I could reach deep into a heady broth of adjectives to describe the magic of the sushi at Masa. I could pull up every workable synonym for delicious. Or I could do this: tell you about watching a friend bite into one of Masa's toro-stuffed maki rolls.
December 29, 2004Dining and WineReviewThe Magic of Napa With Urban Polish
In the end, it was a nine-course vegetable tasting, of all things, that made me drop any reserve, cast aside any doubts and accept the fact that I loved Per Se -- and that this preening, peacock-vain newcomer deserved it.
September 8, 2004Dining and WineReviewIn New York, Promise Fulfilled
Daniel has moved forward, and upward, with grace and assurance. It is now the Daniel that New York wanted and expected all along, a top-flight French restaurant, sumptuous and rather grand, but still very much the personal expression of its chef and owner, Daniel Boulud.
March 14, 2001Dining and WineReviewARTICLES ABOUT FOUR-STAR RESTAURANTS (NYC)
An Autumn Palette
Fall colors will be on display at these restaurants with views of Central Park.
October 19, 2008Off the Menu
Restaurant openings, closings and chefs on the move.
July 30, 2008
Seeking Perfection in the Kitchen of a 4-Star Restaurant
An amateur sous-chef spends the day in the kitchen at Le Bernardin in New York, one of the most highly acclaimed and most expensive restaurants in the world.
July 26, 2008
Turn Down the Burner, Fire Up the Sound
Eric Ripert, the chef of Le Bernardin in New York, prefers music to marinades.
January 13, 2008
2000: Le Bernardin’s Croque-Monsieur
There is a direct relationship between the stock market and the menus in top restaurants, particularly in New York.
October 14, 2007Years to Age but Minutes to Inflate
Dr. Nils Stormby sold off his collection of about 4,500 rare and expensive bottles of wine at an auction in Manhattan on Friday.
September 29, 2007hummmm...
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1 comment:
Thank's.. udah mau jadi pengikut blog aku.. your Recipe look's very delicious.. hummm... Yummy..!!
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